Tourist Drive 32 – The Alternative Way
hit the road
Your adventure begins in the heart of Lismore, at one of the city's most cherished parks for families. Heritage Park is a haven for children and a delight for parents. It features a water play area ideal for summer cooling off, and a charming miniature railway that circles the park. The park also offers a variety of colourful, thoughtfully designed play equipment, along with shelters, barbecues and toilets.
Local Tips
Grab a coffee from one of Lismore’s CBD cafes and head to this lush park to let your kids expend some energy on the play equipment or take a spin on the miniature train. Dogs are welcome but must be kept on a leash at all times.
Leave Heritage Park, turning left onto Molesworth Street. At the Woodlark Street roundabout, turn left and cross the Wilsons River. Turn right at the first roundabout onto Bridge Street, then left at the next roundabout onto Terania Street, which becomes Nimbin Road. Continue on this road for approximately 31 km.
Local Tips
About 12 minutes into your drive, look for the “Goolmangar – Where the Cows Come First” sign for a fun photo opportunity. Goolmangar, a charming hamlet surrounded by dairy and beef farms, is known for this quirky sign.
Goolmangar Store exemplifies a classic country shop, offering a wide range of essentials and an eclectic selection of local and imported luxuries, including body scrubs and candles. Stop in for fresh coffee and treats while enjoying the cow-themed artwork displayed around the store.
As you approach Nimbin, Nimbin Rocks will come into view. There’s a viewing area on the left before you reach the village where you can learn about these ancient rocks, estimated to be 20 million years old. This site holds great cultural significance for the Bundjalung Nation, and access to the rocks is restricted.
Nimbin, Australia's alternative lifestyle capital
This quaint dairying village gained national attention in 1973 when it hosted the Aquarius Festival, drawing students, hippies, and visionaries from across Australia. Many of these visitors chose to stay, embracing the ideals of the festival and contributing to the vibrant community Nimbin is known for today.
Nimbin is known for its eclectic charm, with a distinctive mural streetscape that blends indigenous, rainforest and psychedelic themes, and a lively mix of local characters. For a thorough experience, park your car on Cullen Street or in one of the nearby off-street parking areas and explore the village on foot. You’ll find a variety of cafes, craft shops, galleries and retail outlets.
KEY SPOTS
- The Hemp Embassy is a highlight for visitors, showcasing the hemp plant’s versatile uses in sustainable products ranging from fashion to cosmetics and alternative medicines.
- The Nimbin Craft Gallery and Nimbin Artists Gallery feature an impressive selection of locally made art and craft, including ceramics, woodwork, clothing, glass, jewellery and indigenous art.
- Nimbin Emporium has been serving the local community with groceries and fresh produce since 1973, the same year as the Aquarius Festival. Inside, you can see some of the original Aquarius murals, each representing a zodiac sign.
- For a taste of local flavour, visit the Nimbin Hotel, a welcoming country pub with 16 beers on tap and a menu of delicious pub food.
- Local markets are a must-visit: the Nimbin Markets, held on the fourth and fifth Sundays of the month at the Nimbin Community Centre, offer a mix of art, craft, local produce, and live music. During the week, the Nimbin Farmers Market takes place every Wednesday at 39 Cullen Street from 3-6pm.
- For active visitors, the Nimbin Skate Park features a variety of ramps and bowls for skateboards, inline skates, and BMX bikes.
- 7 Sibley Street is a community-driven project promoting sustainable living with a shop offering locally-made products, craft supplies, and a plant nursery.
- The Djanbung Gardens on Cecil Street, once a cattle paddock, now showcases permaculture and sustainability in its organic gardens, with tours available from Wednesday to Saturday (bookings essential).
- The Nimbin Valley Dairy’s new venture, The Cheeze Van on Tuntable Falls Road, offers a delightful selection of food and drinks, including coffee, milkshakes, cakes and local cheese products, all set against the backdrop of a working farm.
Nimbin culture, coffee and candles await
Drive north on Cullen Street until you cross Cullen Bridge. After crossing, turn right into the car park of the old butter factory, where you'll discover both the Nimbin Candle Factory and the Nimbin Bush Theatre along with its cafe.
The Nimbin Candle Factory, a family-operated business since 1973, specializes in crafting traditional, non-toxic candles using essential oils and vegetable dyes. The factory features a water-powered dipping deck, reminiscent of those used in ancient monasteries.
Across from the butter factory, by the banks of Mulgum Creek, you’ll find the cafe. Enjoy freshly prepared food while taking in the art and gardens in the outdoor seating area. There’s also a spacious grassy area by the water’s edge where you can unwind.
Local tips
The Nimbin Bush Theatre and cafe not only offer a diverse range of events but also house the Nimbin Visitor Information Centre. Here, you can find information about accommodation, transportation and local attractions. A free village map is available, detailing visitor opportunities throughout Nimbin and the surrounding World Heritage-listed national parks.
Continue north on Cullen Street, which becomes Blue Knob Road, for about 7km. Look for the Blue Knob Gallery, Cafe & Ceramic Studio on your left, set beneath the sacred Aboriginal landmark of Lillian Rock.
The gallery features a rotating display of local artists’ works. The cafe, operated by volunteers, serves a variety of snacks, light lunches, coffee, tea and cold drinks. Relax, enjoy a bite, and take in the stunning views of the mountains and Nightcap National Park from the cafe’s seating area.
Meet Clarrie
Continue on Blue Knob Road until it intersects with Kyogle Road. Turn right towards Murwillumbah and follow the road until you see signs for Clarrie Hall Dam, approximately 3km south of Uki.
The dam, stocked with Australian bass, is also a habitat for several notable bird species. You can enjoy canoeing, boating (electric motors, sailboats, or paddle craft only), and fishing here. The recreational area offers picnic tables, sheltered seating, a barbecue, and restrooms.
Local tips
Bring your camera for stunning views of Wollumbin (Mt Warning) and the dam, perfect for capturing memorable photos.
Mountain magic
Retrace your steps along Clarrie Hall Dam Road, then turn right onto Kyogle Road. Uki, nestled at the base of Wollumbin, offers a delightful array of craft shops, galleries, cafes, holistic health centres, a general store, second-hand shops, and more, scattered along the main street and within the historic butter factory.
For a relaxing break, head to the Mount Warning Hotel, where you can enjoy spectacular views of Wollumbin National Park and its peak. This classic country pub serves hearty counter meals that are perfect after a day of exploration.
Local tips
Don’t miss the Uki Buttery Bazaar Market, held on the third Sunday of each month at the old butter factory. The market features live entertainment, local produce, plants, art, craft, clothing, books, jewellery, and vintage items. On Saturdays, the Uki Craft & Produce Market offers a similar range of goods and is a great place to visit.
About 4km north of Uki, turn left onto Mount Warning Road. Follow this road for approximately 6km to reach the entrance of Wollumbin National Park. Here, you’ll find the Lyrebird Track, a 15-30 minute walk through the lush subtropical rainforest of the World Heritage-listed park. The trail includes steps and short, steep slopes, leading you through palm forest and across Breakfast Creek to a stunning lookout surrounded by dense rainforest.
Wollumbin summit holds deep significance for the Aboriginal people, particularly the Bundjalung nation. Visitors are asked to honour their wishes by avoiding the old summit track.
Local tips
Before heading to the park, consider pre-ordering a handcrafted picnic hamper from the award-winning Mavis’s Kitchen & Cabins, located on Mount Warning Road. You can either enjoy your picnic in the national park or relax on Mavis’s beautiful grounds.
The Tweed, championing the arts
Backtrack to Kyogle Road, turn left and drive about 11km until you reach Murwillumbah. The arts are cherished by this town on the banks of the picturesque Tweed River. Explore the Lundberg Gallery, Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre and the gallery’s annex at Gallery DownTown, part of Murwillumbah’s M|Arts Precinct for emerging artists, housed in an industrial warehouse replete with shipping containers for pop-up exhibits.
For detailed information about the town drop by the Murwillumbah Visitor Information Centre at the old railway station, 284 Tweed Valley Way, South Murwillumbah. Here you’ll also find the starting point for the Tweed section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.
Local tips: Fancy riding along the rail trail from Murwillumbah but don’t have a bike? A number of businesses are now offering bikes for hire, including electric bikes.